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LA has a number of visitors centers . The downtown one is at 685 S Figueroa St (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8.30am-5pm; tel 213/689-8822, ); others, all open normal weekday working hours, are in Santa Monica at 1400 Ocean Ave (tel 310/393-7593, ); near Disneyland at 800 W Katella Ave (tel 714/999-8999, ); in Beverly Hills at 239 S Beverly Drive (tel 310/248-1015, ); and in Hollywood at Janes House, 6541 Hollywood Blvd (tel 323/689-8822). All supply free local maps , but you'd do better to spend $2.95 on Gousha Publications' fully indexed Los Angeles CityMap , available from machines in visitors centers and hotel lobbies.

For general delivery/poste restante, use the main downtown post office at 760 N Main St (Mon-Fri 8am-7pm, Sat 8am-4pm, pick up letters Mon-Fri 8am-3pm; zip code 90012; tel 1-800/275-8777).

ARRIVAL:

All European and many domestic flights use Los Angeles International Airport - always known as LAX (tel 310/646-5252, ) - sixteen miles southwest of downtown. Free 24-hour shuttle buses (line "C") connect with the LAX Transit Center at Vicksburg Avenue and 96th Street, where you can pick up local buses . Minibuses such as LAX Chequer Shuttle (tel 1-800/545-7745, ), SuperShuttle (tel 310/782-6600 or 1-800/554-3146, ) and Coast Shuttle (tel 310/417-3988) run all over town, delivering you to your door. Fares are generally around $20-30 (plus tip), with a journey time of between 30 and 45 minutes. Taxis from the airport are always expensive: around $25 to downtown and West LA, $30 to Hollywood and as much as $90 to Disneyland.

If you're arriving from elsewhere in the US, or from Mexico, you might just land at one of the other airports in the LA area - at Burbank, Long Beach, Ontario, or Orange County's John Wayne Airport. MTA buses (tel 213/626-4455 or 1-800/COMMUTE, outside LA tel 1-800/2-LARIDE, ) serve them all - phone on arrival and tell them where you are and where you're going.

The main Greyhound bus terminal, at 1716 E Seventh St (tel 213/629-8401, ), is in a seedy section of downtown, but access is restricted to ticket holders so it's safe enough inside. LA's other Greyhound stations handle fewer services: 1409 Vine St, in Hollywood; 11239 Magnolia Blvd, North Hollywood; 645 E Walnut St, Pasadena; 464 W 3rd St, Long Beach; and 100 W Winston Rd, Anaheim.

Arriving in LA by train you'll be greeted with the Mission Revival architecture of Union Station, 800 N Alameda St (tel 213/624-0171), on the north side of downtown, from which you can also access the city's MTA bus lines.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION:

The sheer scale of LA - its detractors call it "nineteen suburbs in search of a city" - means that it really is difficult to get around without a car. Even though the traffic is often bumper-to-bumper, the freeways are the only way to cover long distances quickly. If you're driving yourself, avoid traveling at rush hours and phone ahead for directions whenever possible. Otherwise, try to relax on the fastest alternative, express buses .

Some people are surprised to find sidewalks in LA, let alone pedestrians, but within districts such as downtown, Santa Monica, Pasadena, Beverly Hills and central Hollywood, walking is the best way to explore.

Public transportation
Hampered by construction scandals and budget cuts, LA's long-anticipated Metrorail train system was envisioned to cover the whole of Los Angeles County, but is currently made up of only three lines, each distinguished by color. Centering on...
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Major LA bus routes (MTA)
From downtown to : Burbank Studios #96 Exposition Park #38, #81 Forest Lawn Cemetery, Glendale #90, #91 Huntington Library #79, #379 LAX #42, #439 Long Beach #60 Orange County, Knott's Berry Farm, Disneyland #460 (express) ...
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Cycling
Cycling in LA may sound perverse, but there are great coastal bike paths between Santa Monica and Redondo Beach, and nice routes at the Orange County coastline, Griffith Park and Pasadena. More disturbingly, the LA River route is only intended for...
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